Follow the brown signs

A Dorset gem saved by the ghost of Thomas Hardy

This tiny chapel, built of flint and stone, with a tiny weatherboarded bell turret, has barely been altered since it was built in Norman times. The inside is simple, bright and beautiful – with uneven limewashed walls and a flagged floor.

The early 18th century oak fittings were provided by William Wake, then Archbishop of Canterbury, whose family lived nearby. The silvery grey, box pews, the pulpit, the screen, the communion rails and matching table, the font cover and the west door all date from his refurbishment.

The wagon roof is unique in that it curves round the apse, with finely carved bosses where the oak ribs intersect.

It is hard to believe that, less than 100 years ago, the church was ‘given over to donkeys, dogs, pigs and fowls’ of the neighbouring farm. The church escaped total ruin in 1931 only when The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings sold a collection of Thomas Hardy manuscripts to pay for repairs.

Hardy was once an architect’s assistant in this part of Dorset, but this church does not seem to have featured in any of his novels. The restoration work was supervised by the architect A R Powys, Secretary to the Society. It is thanks to him that this lovely church has survived in such a wonderfully unspoilt condition. A plaque in the church commemorates Powys’ work

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